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Our Expertise in Dials

Artists and their canvases

The dial gives a watch its face. What at first glance seems so obviously perfect is one of the greatest challenges in the art of watchmaking. For this reason, in-house dial production is of particular importance: Glashütte Original is one of the few watch manufacturers that produces its own dials by hand. In addition to creativity and experience, extreme care and attention are indispensable in the production of wafer-thin dials and filigree display discs.

 

In the new dial manufactory in Glashütte, which was officially opened in June 2025, Glashütte Original has concentrated a high level of expertise that guarantees the high quality and flawless beauty of its dials. Their production involves a large number of individual steps: From the production of the blank and its processing, to the elaborate grinding and polishing of the surface and the diverse and complex finishing processes, numerous hands do their utmost to transform the filigree ‘canvases’ into genuine works of art.

Design and blanks

It all starts with the dial blanks. Depending on what properties and colour the dial should have in the end, the appropriate material is selected: German silver, bronze or brass. In special cases, there are also dials made of sterling silver or solid gold. As soon as the design and the material for the future dial have been defined, a team of dial specialists and goldsmiths begin manufacturing the blanks.

 

Design and blanks

Milling, drilling and surface treatment

After the blanks, which do not yet have the final diameter of the dial, have been punched out, they are provided with cams. During the production process, these cams support the precise positioning of the dials on the various machines. In the next step, the holes and recesses for the hands, indexes or moon phase display are milled. The blank is given its final diameter here and the cams are removed. After cleaning, the so-called dial feet are attached, which are used to position the dial on the movement.

 

Milling, drilling and surface treatment

Galvanising and lacquering

The colour of the dials depends on the design of the watch. During galvanising – also called electroplating – metallic material is applied evenly by electrolysis. Typical colours here are blue, black, anthracite or silver. During lacquering, colour is sprayed on by hand and then dried in an oven. Here, the colour palette ranges from matt white to fine-grained grey and vibrant green. Both galvanising and lacquering take place in clean rooms that can only be entered through dirt and dust-absorbing airlocks. This prevents unwanted deposits and inclusions of very fine particles.

 

Galvanising and lacquering

Printing

One of the final processing steps is printing. In the pad printing process, each dial is placed individually on a base; here the ‘feet’ help with alignment. A machine is then set in motion using a foot pedal: First, paint is applied to a metal plate that has recesses corresponding to the lettering or numbers that are to be printed. Excess paint is then removed with a spatula and a pad, a small balloon filled with air, is pressed onto the plate. The paint absorbed in this way is then transferred to the dial and pressed on. This process is repeated several times to achieve a subtle 3D effect created by several layers of colour.

 

Printing

Applied elements

The majority of the dial manufacturing process is done manually, regardless of whether it involves the careful placement of diamonds, the application of Super-LumiNova® dots or other applied elements such as indexes and numerals. They lend the dial visual depth with their relief and deserve a second and even a third look. The distinctive appliques on the SeaQ, for example, undergo numerous work steps before they take their predetermined place. The small blanks are first individually polished and filled with luminous material. They are then carefully placed in tiny openings on the dial and securely fastened.

 

Applied elements

Final inspection

A typical dial can go through up to 75 work steps. A first inspection is carried out after the metal blank has been produced, a second after the surface has been pressed and a third after the holes for the feet and applied elements have been drilled. Before printing, the dial undergoes another visual inspection and another after pad printing. When the dial can finally be considered finished, it is checked one last time in the final inspection. Only when the dial has passed all the quality controls is it vacuum-sealed and transported to the main building in Altenburger Strasse, where a fully assembled movement is already waiting for its ‘face’.

 

Final inspection

Dial details in focus

What makes a dial truly exceptional can be seen in the many details. Whether it’s a fine sunray finish, traditional silver plating by friction, shimmering mother-of-pearl or an artfully realised moon phase display; every element is the result of artistic creativity, precise craftsmanship and many years of experience.

 

The combination of traditional techniques and selected materials gives each dial its unique depth, structure and charisma. These small works of art, which are designed and manufactured in Glashütte subtly emphasise the essence of every Glashütte Original watch and the personality of its wearer.

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Dial details

With the manual silver-plating by friction, we take up a craft technique rich in tradition that is practised by only a few specialists. In a first step, the gold dial blank is carefully engraved. The engravings are then filled with black lacquer and the dial is fired in a kiln. The dial is then silver-plated by friction, an elaborate process in which a mixture of fine silver powder, salt and water is gently rubbed onto the dial surface using a brush. The dial is thus given an even and smoothly shimmering finish.

 

Silver plating by friction

Hardly any other complication is as closely associated with Glashütte Original as our typical Panorama Date. Hidden behind the big date display are two discs arranged concentrically on one level. They ensure that the date can be read comfortably without interference from a vertical bar. The tiny discs are also manufactured internally and are either colour-matched to the dial or deliberately designed in a contrasting colour. A stepped passe-partout opening stylishly sets off the display.

 

Panorama Date

The circular finish, the so-called ‘vinyl’ pattern, is realised using a small lathe. Here, an employee uses a turning tool to carefully remove a thin thread of metal from the rotating dial blank, creating a fine groove-like pattern. This finish later creates fascinating light reflections and an iridescent colour effect depending on the incidence of light. This pattern is used in particular to decorate sub-dials within the dial, as in some Pano models or the SeaQ Chronograph.

 

Circular finish

Mother of pearl is an organic material made from the innermost layer of various types of shells. Its shimmering finish and durability make it a sought-after material. However, its brittle nature requires extreme dexterity. A mother-of-pearl dial is only 0.4 mm thick. To protect the delicate material from breakage, it is mounted on a plate of brass or German silver, which is also 0.4 mm thick. Additional colour effects can be achieved by applying blue or pink paint between the dial and the metal plate, which then shimmers delicately through the mother-of-pearl.

 

Mother of pearl

The complex display of the moon phase has always been a real challenge. To create the small moon disc, tiny stars of protective lacquer are carefully printed onto the polished surface of a thin disc of bronze or German silver. It is then sandblasted to a matt finish and galvanised blue before the printed stars are removed and their shiny silhouettes exposed. Finally, a diamond-tipped tool is used to incise the two round full moons that later represent the moon cycle, which runs an average of 29.5 days.

 

Moon disc

The decorative sunray finish of some models is applied using a rotating brass brush and a mixture of corundum and pumice stone. The device is set up and operated manually, while a small motor ensures a smooth rotating movement. The trick is to make the finish as subtle as possible but still clearly visible. The dials are then given their desired colour in a special galvanising bath, whereby the galvanic layer is wafer-thin so as not to obscure the ‘rays’.

 

Sunray finish